One Outfit: Steve Calder

One Outfit is a style related project asking the question; ‘If you could only wear one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it be?’

The idea explores why we gravitate to certain looks; outfits that work for the various aspects of our life—work, home, hobbies, going out with friends—, whilst also reflecting our unique personalities. In this series, we ask people of different styles, professions and ages to think about what they wear and why one outfit is the best fit for their life and why each interviewee came up with their particular outfit ahead of all other available choices.

Here we speak with Steve Calder, Founder of Melbourne-based, casual tailoring brand Informale. As you will see from the interview below, Steve designs and wears stylish clothing that works for the different aspects of his life. I am a fan of Steve’s vision for quality, casual tailoring, having owned several pairs of Informale trousers with the T107 Fatigue Pants in Light Olive a particular favourite.

You can follow this project on Instagram at OneOutfitForLife.

If you could only wear one outfit, what would it be and why?

Chore jacket, casual shirt and nice jeans. The potential of each of these garments is massive, and when chosen right, would serve me from Sunday laziness all the way to a midweek evening event.

How does this collection of clothes allow you to move between the various aspects of your life?

My day-to-day is usually comprised of drives between workshops, office work, outings with my young family (puppy included), and seeing clients at our shop. I often wear this combo, so it would be really easy to just fill the wardrobe with these pieces and wear nothing else.

Describe this style:

Rugged-yet-refined casual wear.

List what you are wearing:

INFORMALE J043 Army Chore Jacket – Olive
INFORMALE SH25 Utility Shirt – White
INFORMALE TS03 T-Shirt – White
INFORMALE JE19 Jeans – Indigo
Bailey Nelson “Joyce” specs
1990’s Rolex Explorer II “Polar” watch
Myrqvist Horsebit Suede Loafers

If money was no object, what is the ultimate version of this outfit?

I’m already largely wearing the ultimate version of this outfit. Most of the “luxury” brands that make these pieces are too refined and delicate for dog-and-daughter roughhousing. There are classic heritage versions which I’d otherwise point to, for example the Le Mont Saint Michel Moleskin Chore Jacket, but to me it lacks some personality and uniqueness, unless heavily worn and patinated, which then removes the refined element. I’d otherwise point to the world of vintage clothing, but with everyday clothes I’d rather make my own patina than inherit it. The two pieces I’d upgrade are the glasses, and loafers to Cubitt’s “Cartwright” and Edward Green “Putney” loafers.

What is the origin of this look for you?

My background since 15 years old is in tailoring. I wore and sold most of the menswear trends in the decade or so following, including early 2000’s sloppy fitting trash, mod-esque skinny fits and then the slick, luxe Italian side of tailoring. Luckily I finally found my own style which incorporates my taste in fabrics, cut and colour without any of the fussiness. As a business owner and dad, this type of get-dressed-in-the-dark, go-anywhere do-anything gear is exactly what I need to look and feel my best, whilst not needing to fuss about what I’m wearing.

How do you feel when you wear this? I feel like the most authentic version myself. Confident, relaxed, ready for anything.

Imagine you were put in charge of designing a capsule wardrobe based around your style.

What would it comprise? As someone who has dedicated my working life to answering this question: A tight colour palette of Navy, Green and Beige (with the odd chocolate brown). An overall focus on texture, shape and drape (no advanced colours or patterns). Well-cut, and well-made jackets. Simple layering underneath. Durable pants. Nice shoes.